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Costume Design for Dance (some notes for designers and their employers) by Sabado Lam

When designing for dance it is important to always be aware of the movement. Every form of dance has it’s own particular movement flow and uses the body in different ways. I have been fortunate in my experience to have seen a great deal of dance before I was ever asked to design for dance. I will try to give a basic outline of how I work through my design process so that choreographers and designers may have a guide as to how to put their ideas together. Of course, each project must be approached with some degree of individuality, so not all works will follow the same route in their development. The designer and choreographer should always try to make the process a collaboration, allowing each one’s artistic values to be evident. This comes with good communication and a respect for each other’s talents.

To begin, I try to find out what the given are. By this I mean that we settle on what the basic guidelines are for the project – the budget, the deadline, number of performers and pieces of costume that they will need. This will decide whether it is a project that is manageable. Time and money are always important factors.

Next is to see the dance. It helps if you can get a visual record. I find it very helpful to be able to see the dance more than once so I can get a sense of how the body is being used. The basic ideas really needs to be there. I do not like to design for works in progress. Doing so is like having to select a frame for an unfinished painting. I think that the stronger the vision a choreographer has, the stronger the design element can be. Here is where I usually clarify with the choreographer what his ideas and intent is for the piece. What ideas or feelings is he or she trying to bring out? What is the mood?

After having seen the dance, as nearly finished as possible, I try to determine a silhouette. I make some basic line drawings to show the shapes that I think will work best with the movement. This will enable the choreographer to decide what direction to take. These drawing should be simple. But they will help determine basic shapes for the neckline, hemline, sleeve length, loose fitting or close fitting. Once the choreographer has decided on the outline, I try to ask about colors. Color is important to set the tonal mood for the piece. Other factors here will be what the lighting and scenics are doing. Make sure the color choices are in harmony with these other essential aspects of a production. I will also make some suggestions as to what fabric choice I think will work with the movement.

I have found that taking the choreographer to look at fabric to be a great help. Most designers will offer fabric swatches (small sample pieces) for a choreographer to choose from. But I find that it is much easier for both the designer and the choreographer when they see the fabric on the bolt. Each type of fabric has its own intrinsic movement and weight. One cannot get a good sense of this from a swatch. Often the availability of the materials may help to determine what the final choice will be. It is at this time that the budget and timeline factor into the final design and ultimately how complicated or intricate a costume can be.

Once materials are chosen I make some sample costumes. This will allow the dancer and the choreographer to try it with the movement and give feedback on what they like and what they dislike. From this information you can make modifications as necessary to move towards the final costume. Make sure to communicate to them what final additions are to be made to the costume before it is completely finished. For example, what kind of undergarments will be used, what closures will be used, jewelry choices, head pieces, make up and hair. These details can play a very important part in the total look of a design.

Finally I check to make sure that the overall look is what the choreographer wants. Does the final design add to the entirety of the work? Nothing is worse than to see a costume restricting the dance. The other danger is that a costume calls too much attention to itself such that it distracts they eye from the dance. Design should always serve to highlight the movement not to hinder it.


Sabado Lam has spent twenty years in and out of dressing rooms. He spent many years working for Paul Taylor, a few for Washington Ballet, and now works in several D.C. theaters. In addition to his design work, he earns a living as a wardrobe assistant.

This article was originally published in Bourgeon Vol. 2 #1, September 2006.

Virginia Woolf aside

I was just following some thoughts around the web and came across this, which to me bears on the recent post by Judith Hanna, and prior posts I’ve written on the same subject.

Here it is, from Virginia Woolf:

“When a subject is highly controversial — and any question about sex is that — one cannot hope to tell the truth. One can only show how one came to hold whatever opinion one does hold. One can only give one’s audience the chance of drawing their own conclusions as they observe the limitations, the prejudices, the idiosyncrasies of the speaker.”

The “Stripper” Who Won an Oscar by Judith Lynne Hanna, PhD

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Among the nominees at the 80th Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences Awards ceremony in Hollywood, guess whose former profession was mentioned? Diablo Cody’s. Jon Stewart, holding forth as show host, referred to 29 year-old Cody (real name: Bro0ok Busey) as a former exotic dancer who became a screen writer. Stewart said he was sorry she had to take a pay cut. Cody won the coveted gold statute Oscar for the Best Original Screenplay (“Juno”). The media referred to her as having “once worked as a stripper,” “a former stripper,” a “retired stripper.” Commenting about her dress, the question was “what would you expect from a stripper?” and “she should have saved more dollar bills and bought a better dress.”

[Here is the official trailer from Juno]

Why is being an exotic dancer relevant? Sensationalism. Exotic dancing, the preferred term for stripping since the advent of the upscale gentlemen’s clubs, is stigmatized and has an unfounded reputation for leading to prostitution, drugs and other crime and decreases property values. Recent social science has disproved all of this. Rooted in an American tradition of parody, namely, American burlesque, and Middle Eastern belly dance, exotic dance is a form of dance, theater art and adult entertainment. By definition it’s supposed to be somewhat “risqué” or “naughty” adult play. It is a fanciful teasing that is expected to transgress social decorum and dress codes in an ambience ranging from sedate to carnival-like. Exotic dance is erotic fantasy with disclosure of more skin and display of different movements than are usually seen in public. Performed in signature four to six inch stiletto heels, exotic dance incorporates jazz-like improvisatory movements in choreographed routines.

Perhaps exotic dance does have something to do with screen-writing? Like many other dancers, Cody went from stage to page and wrote a book about her experience. She went on to team with producer Steven Spielberg on a dark-comedy pilot for Showtime called “The United States of Tara,” and filming has begun on “Jennifer’s Body,” a horror flick based on Cody’s original screenplay. (Parade 3-3-08, p. 2) Many dancers have gone on to graduate school and become lawyers, business people, doctors and professors. Yet the media do not consider how Cody’s stripping background helped to shape her now acclaimed aesthetic.

[Here is a little clip from the movie Juno]

Skills learned or enhanced in exotic dancing include memory of movement vocabulary and discipline of the preparation to perform — scheduling, grooming, attire, make-up and choreography. Creativity is rewarded by patron tips and purchase of dances. Learning to adapt to the unpredictable is essential. Exotic dancers sharpen their sensitivity to human behavior – getting along with co-workers (dancers to dj, manager, bar tender, doorman) and diverse patrons. Successful dancers become acute observers of verbal and nonverbal communication in order to sell a fantasy of themselves and to create the patron’s fantasy. Dancers commonly gain self-esteem and self-confidence appearing nude before strangers. Listening skills capture dialog, stories and patron interests. Business and money management leads dancers to complete education, start businesses and support families.

Katherine Frank, one of numerous exotic dancers who earned doctorates (in anthropology, criminology, social work, sociology, theater arts and women’s studies), and became university professors said, “Dancing helped me learn how to handle the inevitable rejections one comes across in any kind of sales position. If you stick with it, eventually someone says yes. It taught me not to take it personally if someone said no at first–it probably had nothing to do with me but with my timing. I also learned to create illusions of authenticity, scarcity and value — useful in many different kinds of careers.”

Maybe the critical and commercial success of “Juno” would not have evolved if Cody had not been an exotic dancer. Did she try out different characters and snappy, smart, funny, captivating dialog in the club? She is one of many performers who prove that exotic dancers are more than sexual objects.

Judith Lynne Hanna, Ph.D., is an expert witness in the area of exotic dance, and has testified on behalf of adult clubs in cases across the country. Hanna has been conducting research on exotic dance sine 1995. For more information, visit www.judithhanna.com.

Reprinted by permission of the author; originally published in Exotic Dancer’s Club Bulletin, May 2008, p. 56

What Every Dancer Needs To Know by Rob Bettmann

Below is the only performance that Jen Stimmel and I had of ‘What Every Dancer Needs to Know’.

I made the dance thinking about teaching… it seems that most teachers tell you what you need to know. That’s part of the role: they set the curriculum. But do we all need the same thing? Sure, you are more marketable with certain strengths. Do we all have the same best road toward those strengths?

I’m not certain that I was able to actually capture what I was after. I think I did, but really: this is a three minute dance. Only so much you can really look for in three minutes.

I really enjoyed working with Jen, and am pleased with the dance we were able to create. Thank you to Joy of Motion for including me in their Choreographer’s Showcase.

Here is the first draft, which we shot to submit for another showcase. (we didn’t get in.)

This is an itty-bitty little dance. I was mindful of trying to not make it be too much. I am also mindful of its high level of abstraction. Since I created it, I have done some editing. We took out all of the downward facing dogs. I felt like they were illuminating a lack of movement invention on my part. Some other changes to make it more fluid… Would love to hear thoughts or suggestions on this. Have final rehearsal next week.

Roudolf Kharatian on Ballet

The roots of classical ballet go back many millennia, for dance and humankind are the same age. In ancient Greece, the physical exercises practiced by the military were called “dance”. In pre-Christian Armenia, a group of seven priests would perform a circle dance around a fire, replicating the movements of the planets. The ancients understood that the human body is the greatest instrument for directing and focusing the consciousness and used dance rituals to achieve spiritual awakening and enlightenment. The dance movements we find in use today are the result of many millennia of evolution and development. Around the world there exist schools which unconsciously have maintained the ritual movements inherited from ancient times and continued to develop them, although in most cases their meanings have been lost.

Ballet, as we know it, began developing in Italy. It then moved to France, Russia, again to Europe, and America. When we speak today of “Russian ballet”, or “American ballet”, we do ballet a great disservice. Although ballet was enriched by its peregrinations, it is neither Russian, nor Italian, nor American, but universal, and determines for itself where it will continue to be developed and reside.

In classical ballet, no movement is coincidental. Every movement has a very definite purpose and significance, and reflects the structure of the universe. The greatest phenomenon of classical ballet, its DNA as it were, is ‘fifth position’ which represents the spiral. Every movement has three intrinsic meanings: physical, emotional, and philosophical. Today, the philosophical meaning has been lost, with more importance being given to esthetic and emotional concerns. What I teach in my class is the reconstruction of the meanings of the main movements as I have come to discover them through work and study.

Roudolf Kharatian teaching In contrast to much of American modern dance, classical ballet training takes many long years of very meticulous work and discipline in order to achieve the minimum required level of proficiency. Unfortunately, today much of the meticulous attention to detail in ballet movement seems to be disregarded.

When I’m working with dancers in class, I try to make them see how important it is that each movement be as clean – as near perfect – as possible. Not only does it facilitate the dancers’ work, but it ensures that each movement actually realizes its intrinsic purpose. Let’s not forget that the purpose of classical ballet exercises is to create beauty, harmony and balance in the world.

Originally published May 5th, 2005 in Bourgeon Vol. 1 #1